When in Rome Tours

The Most Expensive Meal of My Life

2011-11-29T02:58:00.000-08:00

After more than ten years living in the Eternal City and several months researching food in Rome, I finally had a chance to try out Rome's famous Michelin starred restaurant, La Pergola. La Pergola is located on the top floor of the Hilton Cavalieri Hotel. Getting to the Hilton Cavalieri from Rome is not easy, as it is located high in the hills of Monte Mario, outside of the city centre.

From the moment we entered the service was impeccable. The ratio of staff to guests seemed to be 10 to 2. One gentleman takes the coats, another pushes in your seat, another unfolds your napkin, still another brings a water menu (there is a 300 Euro bottle of water on it!), same guy brings the water though. One man brings the wine list, another brings the bread basket (at least 12 times).

At a loss for what to order on the menu, we decided to try the gourmet tasting menu for a mere 190 Euro per person. As the courses began arriving, each was intricately put together and pleasing to the palate. The braised scallops were better than I have had anywhere in Europe.

This broth was not my favourite, but fellow diners did appreciate it. I guess when it came down to it, the dish that won me over was this interesting twist on a traditional Roman favourite:

These fagottini are filled with a purée of Carbonara (egg, pecorino, and pork jowel). These were melt in your mouth delicious and quickly rose to the top of my favourites for the evening. But not for long.

The fillet of beef with pistachio crust and chestnut purée will indeed hold a special place in my heart from now until eternity.

As will this cheese cart. I nearly tried to roll it right into the elevator to take it home with me.

Oh, and the desserts were not too shabby either. Chocolate soufflé was light and just chocolatey enough to be sinful but not overbearing.

Complimenti chef Heinz Beck! The experience wouldn't look out of place alongside our Exclusive VIP Tours of Rome! I can't wait to return one day, after I save up for about 8 more years to be able to afford it.

World's Largest Stations of the Cross on Display at the Vatican

2011-03-11T05:06:00.000-08:00

Via Della Conciliazione is one of Rome's broadest streets, that which leads to St. Peter's Basilica, the mother of all Catholic Churches.

As part of a Lenten blessing, the Vatican is having the world's largest stations of the cross installed along the road. 49 Statues and 11 crosses make up the series which Pasquale Nava and Giuseppe Allamprese have been working on for the last 9 years.

The Stations will remain in place throughout Easter in Rome, possibly until the canonization of Pope John Paul II on May 1 in Rome.

More about the creation of the worlds largest stations of the cross here.

Colosseum Has a New Sugar Daddy

2011-01-24T08:38:00.000-08:00

A call for bids began last July for contractors hoping to take part in the reservation of Rome's most famous monument, the Colosseum. While the bid process continues, until now it was uncertain where the actual funds for the restoration would come from. More attention has been drawn to the dilemma after an ancient dwelling in Pompeii suddenly crumbled to the ground, an embarrassing blow to the Italian state.
It appears as though help is on the way from the UK. After a grueling search for someone to pay for much needed renovations to Rome's crumbling Colosseum, Diego Della Valle, president of Tod's (UK leather goods producer) has pledged 25 million dollars in restoration funds.
As anyone who has recently been sightseeing in Rome can tell you, the Flavian Amphitheatre has seen better days. It's difficult to count all the fires, earthquakes, lightning strikes, and barbarian attacks this massive arena has endured.
Completed in 80 AD, the arena was home to all types of Ancient Roman games, from gladiator battles to mock safaris and naval battles, entertaining up to 55,000 Romans in its three levels of seating.
In an article in “Il Sole 24 Ore” today, Lazio regional president Renata Polverini was quoted as saying “Just as the world likes to imitate Tod's leather goods, let's hope they'll imitate with large donations too”.

Image courtesy of creative commons.

Sightseeing in Rome

2011-01-17T21:33:00.000-08:00

Whether it is your first time or your 10th, while sightseeing in Rome you just never know what you might stumble upon. Just since the first of the year, here are a few events that both Romans and tourists sightseeing in Rome have been able to enjoy:

Piazza Navona: the annual Christmas Market and celebration of La Befana, the good witch who brings candy-filled stockings to children on the eve of January 6

St. Peter's Square: As if the massive life sized nativity and giant christmas tree weren't enough to take in at the Vatican, this week there is an event celebrating animals and their trainers. Tourists arriving to tour the Vatican had to do a double take to figure out if they were at Old MacDonald's Farm or the Holy See today!

Piazza Re di Roma: In the middle of the city, this roundabout piazza has been transformed into an ice skating rink and lodge. For 10 Euro, residents and tourists alike can rent skates and have a spin around the piazza, amidst the hustle and bustle of Roman life.

Piazza Vittorio Emanuele: In the Nuovo Mercato Esquilino (the quarter's new covered market), tribal percussion and dance performances are breaking out when least expected. You could be there picking through the oranges and suddenly the place transforms into a hub of rhythm and movement.

(Also in Piazza Vittorio Emanuele, the man in the picture, quietly stretching and meditating in the middle of the busy park).

There you have it, as you can see there is always more Sightseeing in Rome to be done, whether you have been here for a day or a decade!

ANOTHER New Neighbor - roll out the red carpet!

2010-06-30T08:52:00.000-07:00

For those of you who are sick and tired of our Burger King posts, read no further.

While driving along Via Tuscolana to IKEA for some shopping, I had to do a double take when I saw this massive free standing Burger King that just had a grand opening!

Look to the right, a DRIVE THRU (Well here they call it the KING DRIVE)!

Eat Your Heart Out, McItaly. There's a New Panino in Town

2010-06-17T08:44:00.000-07:00

I can only assume that this panino is Burger King's response to the blasphemous "McItaly" panino made with asiago cheese and artichoke spread.

Burger King Italy has just launched it's Tendercrisp Parmigiano-Reggiano Burger. Sesame seed bun, ketchupy secret sauce, fried chicken, Parmigiano Reggiano, Fried Bacon, Tomato, lettuce, more secret sauce, more bread, and of course a parmigiano crown.

SO Italian I can barely stand it!

Three Reasons to Head Even Farther South

2010-06-01T23:26:00.000-07:00

A few weeks ago Danielle hosted fellow American expat in southern Italy, Laura of Ciao Amalfi, who wrote about the top five reasons to head south of Rome.

Naples, Pompeii … the Amalfi Coast. Yea … definitely reasons to visit Campania. But today, I’m going to share with you three reasons to head even farther south and into Basilicata and Calabria.

Maratea

Maratea is on the Tyrrhenian Coast, about 200 kilometers south of Naples in the region of Basilicata. It is the most popular beach resort in the region and is well-known for its natural grottoes, the black sand beach, Spiaggia Nera and the Redentore-the Christ the Redeemer statue that towers 72 feet over a rocky crag. It is also called “The City of 44 Churches,” because of the two dozen churches spread throughout the village.

Scalea

Scalea is a popular seaside town-and one of my favorite villages in Italy-that is just 30 kilometers further south in the region of Calabria. The old town gets its name, “Scalea,” from the hundreds of stone steps that lead into the historical center.

Once inside, visitors can search for hidden Byzantine mosaics or climb all the way to the top of the hill for panoramic views of the Cedri Rivieria.

Tropea

Continuing south on our Tyrrhenian tour of Calabria and Basilicata-170 kilometers south to be exact-we will find Tropea. Tropea is by far the most popular name in Calabrian beach towns. Its Easter-egg colored water, rocky cliffs and iconic Santa Maria dell’Isola church have all proven inspirational for photographers and travelers and the little village is brimming with contagious energy.

Cherrye Moore is a freelance writer and Calabria tour consultant living in southern Italy. She writes about travel for MNUI Travel Insurance and about living and traveling in Calabria on her site, My Bella Vita.

Three Reasons to Head Even Farther South

2010-06-01T23:25:00.001-07:00

A few weeks ago Danielle hosted fellow American expat in southern Italy, Laura of Ciao Amalfi, who wrote about the top five reasons to head south of Rome.

Naples, Pompeii … the Amalfi Coast. Yea … definitely reasons to visit Campania. But today, I’m going to share with you three reasons to head even farther south and into Basilicata and Calabria.

Maratea

Scalea

Once inside, visitors can search for hidden Byzantine mosaics or climb all the way to the top of the hill for panoramic views of the Cedri Rivieria.

Tropea

Italian Obsession with Cleaning, Part II

2010-05-19T03:05:00.000-07:00

You may recall our last piece on the Italian obsession with keeping an immaculate home. Today I could not help but snap a few pictures as I caught my neighbor in the act.

Here's how it all went down. It's 7:30 AM on a rainy and dreary morning in Rome. As I wait for my coffee to brew, I stumble over to the window and see that my neighbor, a true creature of habit, has her yellow gloves on and is meticulously cleaning between each fold of the window shutters. She does this EVERY morning at 7:30.

Even while it is raining she cleans those bad boys, despite the fact that the rain will only bring down more dirt and soot onto her windows which she will annihilate tomorrow, I have no doubt.

Did I mention what time it was??

Ah, and five minutes later, downstairs from Mrs. Clean, two of the cutest little old ladies I have ever seen were learning out their windows to gossip while it continued to drizzle down on this Roman street at 7:40 in the morning. Another day in Rome has begun my friends. Live and let clean...

A visit to charming Montefioralle

2010-05-18T01:46:00.000-07:00

Nestled in the heart of the Chianti countryside, high above the nearby town of Greve is the cutest little walled town called Montefioralle. This ancient fortified city is one of the oldest in the area and still retains its initial walls.

The tiny village, mostly free of cars, drips charm at every twist and turn. It's what you picture when you close your eyes and think of Tuscany.

Crumbling, old, mismatched stone walls in hues ranging from beige to gold to brick red; winding cobbled pathways, with curved gateways, which reveal welcoming wooden doorways with pots and pots of colorful flowers spilling out over the entrance; miniature-sized windows framed in shutters and shrouded in intricate lace curtains which dance slightly in the breeze.

Over the years, the village has belonged to the Ricasoli, Benci, Vespucci and Gherardini families. As you wander the area, keep your eye out for a 'V' and a wasp carved into stone above one of the doors depicting the house where Amerigo Vespucci lived. Don't miss a visit to the gothic church of Santo Stefano, which has been restored and houses many pieces of notable artwork.

Though the village has a restaurant, it is the perfect vantage point from which to enjoy a picnic lunch perched on one of its stone walls, while enjoying the surrounding postcard views of lush vineyards and olive groves.
Or, for those wanting a bit more exercise, there are walking paths and hiking trails which pass by villas, farmhouses and old churches. Greve is about a 20 minute walk and further afield, Panzano can be reached by way of back roads.

And if you are into Sagre (festivals paying homage to food), visit in mid-March for The Sagre delle Fritelle, which is a celebration of fried rice balls.

No matter what time of year you visit, don't forget to bring your camera - you won't want to miss capturing the picturesque houses, village or views of Tuscany that you'll find here.

Robin Locker is a France and Italy travel consultant, freelance travel writer and photographer who hopes to one day realize her dream of living La Dolce Vita in her beloved Italy. She writes about travel for MNUI travel insurance and on her own site, My Melange" She is addicted to social media - you can follow her on Twitter @MyMelange.

Underground Rome

2010-05-10T01:27:00.001-07:00

Everyone loves Rome; I guess that’s why all roads lead there and bring zillions of tourists each year. However, what many of them don’t realize is that there is so much more to this ancient city than the street-level archaeological sites they visit, such as the Colosseum and the Roman Forum.

The Eternal City is actually an underground labyrinth of antiquities, some revealed and many yet to be uncovered. Intrepid travelers should know that many of them are also accessible and oh, so much fun to visit. In a city that is over 3,000 years old, it would be impossible to list all of the underground treasures, so here are the top 3 of Underground Rome, at least in this wanderlust woman’s opinion:

Crypta Balbi – is a small museum with a wealth of offerings into the dark ages of Rome’s history. It is actually a working archaeological site. You enter at street level, leaving modern life behind, and descend into centuries of ancient life, complete with insula (Roman apartment buildings); a lime kiln, ancient bathrooms and more. It is right near the Trevi Fountain. Many artifacts are housed in the street-level museum but you will need a guide to take you through the subterranean archaeological site, so inquire at the ticket window. It is well worth the visit. (By the way, it is a recent discovery by Roman standards, having only been unearthed in 1981 and open to the public twenty years later. It is called the Crypta Balbi because at one time it served as the Theater of Balbus, one of Caesar Augustus’ most important military advisors.)

Church of San Nicola in Carcere – this is an unassuming church on Via del Teatro Marcello. From the outside you see some old columns and crumbling walls and it may appear to be any old church. Ah, there is your first mistake. This church was built on and in the site of the Forum Holitorium, the ancient food and oil market of Rome. The outer columns actually date from the 3rd century B.C. and the ruins in the back church yard are equally as ancient. The columns are the remains of the Temple of Juno and now built into the walls of the modern day church, which is about 400 years old. Below ground are bits of the Temples of June and Spes. There have been reports of a church on this site since the third century although the commemorative plaque on the current church dates from 1128 A.D. You are allowed to enter and go below the altar. This was spooky and quite mysterious for a Catholic school girl who didn’t think anyone but priests could enter below the altar or sacristy. Once down there, peak through the windows which lie between the ancient columns. It is a strange view of how layers of history lie just below the surface of everyday life in Rome.

Vatican Necropolis (a/k/a – Scavi) – this is the ancient necropolis under the Vatican and admission is reserved to a select few each day (unless you’re on one of the lucky When in Rome tours). You descend under the most notable church in the world, St. Peter’s Basilica, through 16 centuries of history, viewing ancient paths and tombs, seeing preserved frescoes, until you come upon what is believed to be the grave of St. Peter. If you want a sneak preview before your Roman adventure, the Vatican offers a great virtual and interactive tour on its website.

Solo Traveler Tip – all of these sites except the Vatican Necropolis are open during the evening hours and will give the single tourist something to do in this city with so much to offer.

Lisa Fantino is an award-winning journalist and attorney and the creative force behind Wanderlust Women Travel (and soon Wanderlust Weddings). She also writes travel features for MNUI Travel Insurance and blogs as Lady Litigator.

The New Boy in Town

2010-05-06T02:09:00.000-07:00

Yesterday as I was leaving my office, I noticed there is a new "boy next door" to me. Tall, dark, great smile, well dressed. Sadly, this is no Italian Stallion. It is a 6 foot tall hot dog. That's right folks, Mr. Hot Dog has moved into the vacant shop next door, right on Via Cavour a stones throw from the Roman Forum. Will it survive where others have failed? Only time will tell. His menu is strictly hot dogs, of all shapes & sizes.

While I can't imagine passing up good Italian food for a hot dog while sightseeing in Rome, I suppose there are some who feel there is never a bad time for a weaner.

Experiencing the Museum of Life in Rome

2010-04-27T00:34:00.000-07:00

It is no secret that Rome is not my favorite city in Italy. It's not that I don't like spending a little time there or that there aren't tons of things to do, but it's just not the Italy that fills my heart or makes me feel like I am home when I'm there.

But, that said, there are many things that I love to do in Rome. And most of them don't involve The Vatican or The Forum. In fact, I prefer to be outside, enjoying and experiencing what I like to call the museum of life.

One of my favorite pastimes is the simple and inexpensive act of wandering. Rome has so many great places to just walk and discover. I love just strolling around the Trastevere and Monti neighborhoods and down the Via Giulia- one of the oldest streets in Rome. I can spend hours sneaking glimpses of Roman life and peering into the lovely courtyards while imagining what it must be like to live there.

Another way to watch Roman life go by is spending time in a Roman piazza. My favorites? The Piazza Navona, home to the famous Bernini fountain, always has such an energy surrounding it and seems to have something interesting going on all the time. The other is the Piazza della Rotonda, which also has a lovely fountain, but happens to be the site of the Pantheon, one of the most stunning monuments in the eternal city. Many piazzas are lined with cafes and trattorias, which make excellent vantage points from which to soak up the local atmosphere.

Spending time shopping at an outdoor food market is also a great way to mingle with the locals. One of my favorite markets is the Campo dei Fiori, which has a tasty mix of fresh seasonal fruits and vegetables, fish, meats, spices, olive oil, balsamic vinegar and flowers on offer.

Robin Locker is a France and Italy travel consultant, freelance travel writer and photographer who hopes to one day realize her dream of living La Dolce Vita in her beloved Italy. She writes about travel for MNUI travel insurance and on her own site, My Melange. She is addicted to social media - you can follow her on Twitter @MyMelange.

"For Starters"

2010-04-21T02:34:00.000-07:00

“How was your food, sir?” said the waiter.

I just stared at him.

Sometimes you're faced with questions that are such a can of worms, that offer so many places to start your answer that you're struck dumb, your mind filled with unfurling possibilities and your mouth flapping in the vain hope that one of them will reach daylight through it.

I wanted to explain to him that the food I'd just had was the best, the very best I'd enjoyed anywhere, ever. I'm no stranger to the gustative magic of Mediterranean food, but this had been a ticker-tape parade of taste, a wild, raucous party going on in my mouth (now moved to my stomach). Here in the hills above Giulianova, surrounded by the rolling green quilt of Italy's Abruzzo region, I'd had the word “food” redefined for me.

But that seemed hackneyed and inadequate. Instead, I felt the urge to explain that I came from England, a country where all too often, food wasn't a social event, a chance to sit down with your neighbours and loved ones or to turn strangers into friends. It was something done hurriedly, in between more important things. You shovelled the calories down and then you left. Sometimes you forgot you were eating at all, your eyes glued to a book or a flickering television. Mealtime was No Big Deal. And looking around at all the tables arranged at this oh-so-very-Italian wedding feast, I could see how desperately broken that relationship with food was in comparison with the one I was enjoying a glimpse of here.

But that seemed too philosophical. He didn't want philosophy: he was merely being polite, on the way to clearing away my plate. And if he did that, I wouldn't have anywhere to put the dollop of carbonara I'd been eyeing for the last couple of minutes, waiting just the right amount of time to be polite before I pounced.

So I said “Delicious. Mm!”, made a faintly ludicrous lip-smacking gesture that instantly singled me out as Foreign, and held my plate down on the table so he couldn't whip it away. With a bemused air and the hint of a cocked eyebrow the waiter moved on, leaving me to gaze down the table at the still-absurd amount of food laid out for us, at the laughing, giggling, chattering guests basking in the afternoon sunshine. In a week I'd be back in England, where food didn't usually make this happen between people.

Well – now I knew better.

And then I thought of the answer I should have given the waiter – the best and only real answer under the circumstances.

“It's a good start.”

Mike Sowden is a freelance travel-writer and blogger. He writes about travel for MNUI travel insurance and for his own site Fevered Mutterings. Catch up with him on Twitter @Mikeachim.

Top 10 Reasons Why Italy is more Adorable than a Woman

2010-04-15T00:43:00.000-07:00

I was wondering what can I write about Italy since When In Rome Tours had covered most of it. It was some 10 years ago when I last traveled to Italy, and there would be another 17 days before I step into Italy once again. What is Italy to me? Italy is so irresistible to be loved and once you have been there, you will go back there again, no matter how long, just like me. To me, its many distinctive characteristics to travelers worldwide are at least as adorable as a woman I love. I have these 10 reasons why travelers are falling in love with this country, as much as a woman:

1. She is so Sexy. When you are in Venice, the magnificent view over the Grand Canal, riding a Gondola, and admiring the sunset just make you feel like making love... their many beaches especially Calabria are hot too!
2. She is so Elegant. When you are cycling up onto the mountain in the middle of vineyards in the cultural capital of Tuscany, sipping your glass of Tuscan wine, everything seems to be perfect and deserved to be taken care of.
3. She is so artistic. When you are in Rome visiting art museums and squares with sculptures, you just couldn't learn enough from this historic capital. Italians are also known to be open minded to chat with.
4. She is so fashionable. She has all the top fashion flagship stores in Milan and she has many world top designers in hands. Need we say more?
5. She is so rebellious. To see Italy off-the-beaten-track, travel by bicycle is very often to be seen and it is rebellious way to explore Italy.
6. She is so expensive. While buildings may look old and rundown, one of the world most expensive sport cars, Lamborghini Revention and Ferrari Enzo are also manufactured here.
7. She is so Experienced. Italy has all sorts of travel attractions to make most travelers falling in love with her.
8. She is so Slim. When you are eating out at Italian local cafe, you will notice their recipes are very simple with controlled ingredients. It is why Italians women are mostly slim which is most attractive to men like us.
9. She is so cold and so friendly. She has double faces. While Italians in Northern regions are appeared cold, Southern region Italians are so friendly and welcoming to tourists.
10. Most tempting of all, Italy is so Beautiful! Statues, sculptures, people, architecture, canal, beaches and mountain landscapes in Italy are so beautiful and picturesque. Your camera's shutter will need to work extra hard to capture all beautiful scenes in any travel destinations here.

The list goes on. There are too many irresistible reasons why I love Italy more than a woman. :)

Cecil Lee is an avid traveler who is also a passionate travel blogger and travel photographer living in Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia. He writes about travel for MNUI travel insurance and on his own travel photo blog, Travel Feeder.

The Most Important Woman in Paris is...Italian!

2010-04-08T01:15:00.001-07:00

The Most Important Woman in Paris

This week I’ve been strolling through the leafy streets of Paris as springtime plucks up the courage to say bonjour. I don’t need to explain that France is a country that takes great pride in, well, itself. French art, food, wine and style are all matters of national identity (the government expects its cuisine to get UNESCO World Heritage status, after all.)

Yet today I realised that the most important woman in the ultimate French city is Italian. And I don’t mean Carla Bruni.

She lives in one of the city’s most magnificent buildings, with her own security system, conspiracy plot, teasingly rich history and queues upon queues of adoring fans. I mean, of course, La Jaconde, the woman from Florence who has smiled at the paparazzi for more than five hundred years. Mona Lisa.

Her creator, Da Vinci, escorted her from Florence to Milan and then on to Rome before exchanging her for 4 000 gold coins in France.

In 1911, Vincenzo Perugia succeeded in whisking her away from the Louvre, with the alleged aim of restoring her to her homeland. Yet the authorities were unconvinced and soon the lady with the smile was back in Paris, while Perugia went to jail.

Today, more than 6 million people visit the Louvre, itself a stunning combination of Renaissance architecture and giant glass pyramids. Yet despite more than 35 000 works of art from around the globe, most visitors know who they’ve come to see.

La Jaconde.

So is she worth it? You’ll have to visit and make up your own mind.

Abigail King is a freelance writer with a passion for art, science and travel. She blogs at Inside the Travel Lab and also writes for Cheap Weekend Breaks and MNUI Travel Insurance.

Top 5 Reasons to Head South to Campania

2010-03-30T04:25:00.000-07:00

With so much to see and do in Italy, it’s often hard for visitors to decide just where to go while planning a trip to il bel paese. For many people it comes as a surprise to learn how much there is to see and do in the region of Campania, just a short drive south of Rome. When Danielle invited me to write a guest post for When in Rome Tours, I decided to share with you some of the top reasons to head south to Campania.

1. Naples Historic Center
Walking the streets of the centro storico (historic center) in Naples is an unforgettable experience, full of all the typical Neapolitan sights, sounds and smells. Naples is a vibrant city with a complex and fascinating history. Don’t forget to include a stop at the National Archaeological Museum, one of Italy’s top museums, where you’ll find many of the treasures uncovered at the nearby ruins of the ancient Roman towns destroyed by the eruption of Mt. Vesuvius in 79 AD.

2. Pompeii and Herculaneum
Speaking of Mt. Vesuvius, it looms large over the now peaceful ruins of Pompeii and Herculaneum that were covered by ash and lava during the devastating eruption of the volcano in 79 AD. Time stopped on that day for these two ancient port towns, and the excavated ruins provide a rare opportunity to walk the streets and glimpse a bit of Roman daily life.

3. Amalfi Coast
Many people travel to Campania just to experience the majestic beauty of the Amalfi Coast. With towns tucked into the valleys and situated high on the mountain tops, there are stunning views around every twist and turn of the impressive Amalfi Coast Road.

4. Capri
Despite the fact that Capri is one of Italy’s top tourist destinations, there remains an air of magic to this gorgeous island in the Bay of Naples. Head off the beaten path to explore the small side streets or go hiking to escape the tourist crush, and you’ll undoubtedly find a bit of Capri’s magic yourself!

5. Paestum
If the breathtaking scenery of the Amalfi Coast and Capri aren’t enough to put Campania at the top of your Italy travel list, my final temptation for you takes us down to the ruins of the ancient town of Paestum. You don’t have to go to Greece to see fabulous examples of ancient Greek temples. You just have to travel to southern Italy’s Campania region!

Laura Thayer is an art historian and freelance writer living on the Amalfi Coast in Campania. She writes about travel for MNUI travel insurance and blogs about life on the Amalfi Coast at her own site Ciao Amalfi.

Why isn't there a Nutella museum in Italy?

2010-03-18T04:35:00.000-07:00

We have museums for just about everything else (who cares about modern art or Egyptian mummies while traveling through Italy?), so why shouldn't there be a museum dedicated to Nutella, Italy's number one chocolate snack? In it they could put up fabulous works of art like this one:

And of course there should be a room for the most interesting jars, like the 3 kilo jumbo size, and of course this perfectly portable and embraceable little Nutella nip:

30 grams of spreadable chocolate love, small enough to fit in your pocket. Screw American Express, never leave home without Nutella!

Italy Rules Refusing To Pay a Prostitute = RAPE.

2010-03-04T02:28:00.000-08:00

A high court judge in Italy on Wednesday ruled that by not paying a prostitute, an act of rape is committed. According to an article published by Ansa today, a conviction was upheld for the 50 year old man from Liguria named Diego S. who ran from a hotel without paying the prostitute he had been with.

Battle of the Meatloaves

2010-02-24T07:17:00.000-08:00

American "meatloaf"(courtesy of thisiswhyyourefat)

Italian polpettone

Questions?

Susan Boyle Tears It Up at San Remo Festival

2010-02-19T01:54:00.000-08:00

Susan Boyle performed magnificently at the San Remo festival in Italy earlier this week after collapsing in London's Heathrow airport and risking having to cancel the performance.

Bravissima!

Excellent Translation Work

2010-02-06T02:13:00.000-08:00

On a recent trip to Colombia, the most amusing part of the Salt Cathedral of Bogota' had to be the translations of some of the stations of the cross.

And the Jesus face is grateful

As a former translator, I get a kick out of these things.

Colombia: Why You Shouldn't Believe Everything You Hear on the News

2010-01-19T10:00:00.000-08:00

When In Rome, we do as the Romans do. When on vacation, we don't. Once in a while it's a good thing to get out of Italy and experience some of the other amazing places in the world.

A farmhouse Gazebo overlooking the mountains of Antioquia

If we only paid attention to what we hear on the news, the closest most of would ever get to experiencing Colombia is having a cup of Colombian blend at the local coffee shop. The reality of Colombia is that most of the country is perfectly safe for travel, and the few regions that are not can be easily avoided.

Getting There
While most Romans leave for the summer, my holiday comes during the off season when temperatures in Rome are dismal and summer is in full swing in South America. The best deal I found for Colombia was on Spirit Airlines for about 350 dollars (one way). Their flights for Medellin leave from Ft. Lauderdale and connecting flights can be found all over the U.S. For European and most other origins, Iberia or Air France are good options too.

Home Base
Most of this trip was spent in a small town north of Medellin called Don Matias. This town was founded in 1814 and has just about 20,000 inhabitants. Its center is a tiny square with colonial looking balconies, coffee and liquor kiosks galore, and last but not least a massive Catholic Church which dominates the square.

Don Matias raises more than 220,000 pigs per year, placing it first in all of Colombia. Milk production is also a major industry here, with 186,000 liters of milk produced per day. According to El Mundo, though Don Matias has only 20,000 residents, as many as 10,000 people from this town have up and left over the past decades in search of greener (and surely colder) pastures in Boston, Ma. This is evident almost everywhere you go in this tiny town, where there are nearly as many men sporting Red Sox hats as there are traditional Colombian Sombreros. Even the town mayor spent several years living and working in Chelsea, MA, and the local Discoteque is called (you guessed) BOSTON.

Scallions grow so large that they look like leeks. Boston Discoteque in background

Local pastimes include drinking (coffee by day, aguardiente or rum by night), gossip, horseback riding (sometimes combined with drinking and gossiping), and on occasion watching and betting on cock fights.

The town is situated at about 2,000 meters above sea level, which makes for sunny and warm days but cold nights. A 45 minute drive down the harrowing stretch of mountains known by locals as the loma de matasanos (climb that kills even the healthy) takes you to the major city of the Antioquia region: Medellin.

The Colombian version of hitchhiking

Medellin
Medellin is a sprawling city that stretches across a valley of mountains in the North of Colombia. It is home to 2 million residents plus thousands of others from nearby towns who come to do business on a daily basis. Once a violent and dangerous city, modern Medellin is one of the most beautiful and enjoyable cities in South America. Seasonal festivals that make Medellin especially worth visiting are the Feria de los Flores flower festival which is held each August, and the amazing character and lights displays across the city and its rivers during the month of December.

Medellin has a consistently warm climate, and is sunny and hot all year round. People looking to get some relief from the heat need look no further than the parque de los pies descalzos (barefoot park).

Parque de los pies descalzos, Medellin

Children and adults alike have a blast jumping in and out of the fountains, while others spread out blankets in the shade and observe the fun.

Medellin is a bustling city, and everyone in it is a salesman. From bra straps (you would not believe the variety of colors, fabrics, sizes and shapes that one can find bra straps in this city) to mangoes, lottery tickets, chiclets, and popsicles, it is a sensory overload of product peddling.

Medellin is not a city without it's problems. Petty crime is an every day reality, and many of its residents live in situations of extreme poverty in neighborhoods that resemble shanty towns like this one.

Poor neighborhood in Medellin

Still, for every poor neighborhood there is a neighborhood of middle to upper class residents such as the chic El Poblado with it's massive shopping malls and great restaurants.

Panorama of Medellin

Other attractions in Medellin include the Pueblito Paisa, a small recreation of an old fashioned paisa town, and the Museo de Antioquia, where local artist Fernando Botero houses dozens of his famous paintings and sculptures of "los gorditos", his typical plus size subjects.

EAT as the Colombians Do

Colombian food has not exactly made its mark as one of the leading global cuisines. Still, there are some great dishes to be found here. Colombians normally eat three meals per day, all of them savory. Yes, that means that for breakfast you could be looking at something like this.

A Bandeja Paisa comes with rice, beans, beef, pork (chicharron), fried plantains, fried egg, salad, and avocado.

A few of my other favorites are the arepa de choclo, made from fresh corn kernels that are hand picked from the cob, liquefied, and then pan fried into a heavenly little cake onto which one spreads butter and cheese (yum)

Empanadas are the perfect snack food (they go well with beer)

Sancocho is a wonderful soup made with chicken or beef and local vegetables

Buñuelos have to be my all time favorite. Little balls of cheese and flour that are rolled into a ball and fried. Most Colombians eat them with natilla, a jello-esque food that I have not yet embraced. I love these with a hot cup of cafe con leche.

A great resource for planning travel to Colombia is PaisaTours.com. Paisa Tours is not an actual tour operator but has loads of essential info on planning travel to Colombia. I'll be using their guide in my next leg of this journey to the Amazon region for a few last days of peace and quiet before heading back to Rome and launching the new 2010 tour products.

Italy: Why Immigrants Keep Coming

2010-01-18T09:32:00.000-08:00

With all the recent headline news about Italy being a racist country and its mistreating immigrant workers, for some reason immigrants will still risk their lives to come here. Italian authorities at the port of Bari have just discovered an
Afghan boy hiding inside a suitcase in the trunk of a car. However bad the situation for immigrants might be in Italy, imagine what their lives must be like back home for them to take such measures to get into Italy.

Berlusconi: Drastic Times Call for Drastic Measures

2010-01-08T05:45:00.000-08:00

One of the first things Silvio Berlusconi did as Italian Prime Minister was to pass a law granting the highest government offices (himself included) immunity against prosecution while in office.
Judges overturned this law last October and after Berlusconi was recently attacked by a figurine-wielding madman, apparently he is looking for protection elsewhere.

Berlusconi's latest idea is that Political blogging should be illegal, as it has led to a climate of hatred in Italy. This is not the first attempt at censuring the internet in Italy.

Vatican Museum hikes ticket prices (AGAIN)

2010-01-05T09:06:00.000-08:00

Why is it that the Vatican can raise its Vatican museum ticket prices every year, and we have kept our Vatican Tour prices the same for four years now and still people whine?! Unfair. Someone had better get Pope B16 on the phone for me.

Isn't 15 Euro too much to pay just for entry to the museum, without any guided tour or information at all? Not to mention, the artwork inside is not even marked. Well, I guess SOMEONE has to pay for the Pope's fabulous wardrobe:

Spanish Supermarket Finds Surprise in Banana Box

2010-01-05T08:40:00.000-08:00

I love shopping at LIDL in Rome. A stock employee at one of the LIDL supermarkets in Spain recently found 80 kg of cocaine stuffed into packets beneath a shipment of bananas. I have one word for those drug smugglers: DOH! Bet your bananas they'll be more careful next time!

Berlusconi attacked by figurine-wielding madman at Milan rally

2009-12-14T16:01:00.000-08:00

Who knew I would one day feel sorry for Silvio. My friends, that day has come.

I wonder if his ex is laughing now. What a year for Silvio. More on the Italian Prime Minister's scandals here.

Papal Christmas Fashion

2009-12-11T18:37:00.000-08:00

I wonder if B16 will wear this creepy hat at Christmas this year. Bets, anyone?

Scenes from an Italian Bathroom

2009-11-17T09:12:00.001-08:00

When in Rome, squat as the Romans do.

Believe it or not, this is one of the nicer public bathrooms you will find in Rome. Here are the criteria I use to make that judgement:

1. toilet paper is supplied

2. Toilet brush is only slightly brown

3. There is a sink (not visible in photo) with running water and soap

Rome is not the city of plush public restrooms. Rather, it is the land of practicing the Crouching Tiger, hidden dragon pee. No toilet seat to be found. And don't be surprised if you get charged 30 or 50 cents to use one of these bathrooms either.

Your Way, Right Away, The Roman Way

2009-10-14T05:48:00.000-07:00

Top ten reasons to live in Rome:
1-10: BURGER KING.

There are now ten Burger King locations in and around Rome. If the thought ever crossed my mind to move away from Italy, the option is now off the table.

I love the ad for the new Bacon Caesar Steakhouse sandwich, but I would never order it because the whopper cheese is and always will be my tried and true BK burger of choice.

Took this photo during a When In Rome Tours housecall at a hotel near Via Nazionale this morning, where this newest location just opened.

If you want your house cleaned properly, ask an Italian.

2009-10-08T05:20:00.000-07:00

Italians are the biggest neat-freaks in Europe, according to a recent reportbuyer poll. This comes as no surprise to me at all, given how for years I have felt nothing short of inadequate when it comes down to it. While I like to keep a tidy house, and even have household help to assist a few times a week, somehow there is always a hairball (from the dog-I hope) in the hallway or laundry basket that has spilled out onto the floor.

When I visit Italian friends I just sit and admire their spotless floors, sparkling appliances, and clean-as-a-whistle windowframes, doorframes, shutters, you name it. A few friends have admitted that if you open up cabinets or drawers, all hell breaks loose as toys, clothes and other incriminating evidence spill out all over the place. Yet still they manage to keep up with the appearance of an impeccably clean casa.

According to the study, Italians clean their house (not tidy, CLEAN) four times a week. There are very few things I manage to do four times a week. Cleaning the house, sadly, is not one of them. Hence it will be a long time before I get my house in gear and challenge any of them to a Betty Crocker clean-0ff.

On another note, the obsession with cleanliness does not count once the threshold to the outdoors has been crossed. At least in Rome, the streets are still a public dumping ground. The north of Italy is a bit less dirty, but still covered with graffiti and trash.

Study results from Reportbuyer.com

Mafia Crocodile

2009-10-01T04:30:00.001-07:00

Anyone who has seen the great mob hits like the Godfather, The Sopranos, Goodfellas, etc knows that Italian mafiosi will go to great lengths in the name of extortion.

From the $600,000 horse head in the bed of Godfather character Jack Woltz to the baseball-bat beatings dished out by the likes of Tony Soprano and friends, when it comes to making someone pay up, common sense should tell you that you don't want to mess with these guys.

In modern Italy, the mafia remains a reality but a subdued one that is often talked about but rarely actually seen. Once in a while, it rears its ugly head and when this happens, it does make headlines. Recently a 5.5 foot Crocodile was discovered near Naples in the home of a Caserta known mobster while police searched for arms and other implicating evidence.

According to the police, the crocodile is capable or snapping off a man's limb (or worse) with a single bite. Presumably the mobsters would take the animal along on occasions where more traditional money collection methods failed.

The suspect has now been charged with illegal animal posession, and the "pet" has been taken to an animal rehabilitation center.

photo care of elvis santana

When in Rome, Do as the Romans. When in Ghana, PLEASE Don't Poop on the Beach

2009-09-18T13:28:00.000-07:00

Imagine you are sunbathing on this beautiful beach when a couple of guys stroll by, stop, squat, and "drop some friends off" on the sand next to you. Don't laugh, this could happen to you!

Most Africans are understandably not concerned with working on their tans. Despite the fact that the ocean is beautiful and the sand soft, the beach is there for taking the occasional swim, sometimes sleeping, and yes, public crapper.

Since they put up these signs (don't you love the visual?) the situation may have improved mildly, but there is still a ways to go. Must remember to think of this next time I start complaining about the public bathrooms in Italy.

Sorry for the segue from our usual When In Rome subject matter. I couldn't resist.

Italy: History, Food, Culture, and Toxic Waste?

2009-09-16T00:13:00.001-07:00

The news from Italy today is by no means good. The associated press has reported that a shipwreck has been discovered off the coast of Calabria containing 180 barrels of toxic waste. The waste is believed to be tied to the Calabria Mafia , known as the 'Ndrangheta. According to the AP article, former mobster Francesco Fonti has told authorities that the 'ndrangheta has made millions of euro by sinking ships of radioactive waste on behalf of Northern Italian companies since the laws surrounding waste disposal became increasingly stringent and costly to comply with.

While this toxic discovery is truly bad news, it suggests that there is probably even worse news. Where there is one, there are probably many. Who knows how many ships full of radioactive material have been sunk in Italy without ever being detected? Since searching for them is extremely costly and difficult, we may never know. In the mean time, the radioactive waste will seep out into the water, make its way into the food supply of the ocean life and subsequently our own. Cancer, birth defects, and a whole slew of known and unknown dangers could result. In other words, our children (and most likely we too) are screwed.

image © Copyright Chris Allen and licensed for reuse under this Creative Commons Licence

The Gucci of Balsamic Vinegars...

2009-09-10T05:41:00.000-07:00

Bertani balsamic vinegar that has aged for 40 years.

Amazing. The kind of stuff that makes me think why on earth did this sit in my cupboard for 3.5 years before I finally opened it and drizzled in on some fresh strawberries... Next will be over vanilla ice cream.

This is the kind of thing I would really miss if one day I didn't live in Italy.

If Thoughts Could Kill?

2009-09-08T07:55:00.000-07:00

I am experiencing a horrific sense of guilt today. Last night as I was winding down after a long day, I turned on the TV and started watching an Italian variety show. After about 30 seconds the old man who was hosting the show failed to keep my interest and I said to my husband, "this guy really needs to retire, he looks mezzo morto (one foot in the grave)". Today, I turn on the news and WHAM, Mike Bongiorno died of a heart attack this morning.

What the _ _ _ _ ?!

He may have been old, and he may have seen better days, but Mike Bongiorno earned his reputation as the "Quiz King" of Italian TV and will be missed greatly. I on the other hand must be careful what I think about...

Swine Flu Claims First Italian Life

2009-09-04T01:57:00.000-07:00

The Focus news agency reported today that a 51 year old man from Naples is the first Italian victim to die of Swine Flu (H1N1 virus). Although the man's identity is being kept private, the Cotugno hospital did report that the man had pre-exisiting pancreatic diabetes and cardiac myopathy which aggravated the swine flu symptoms and eventually led to pneumonia and a staph infection which he did not recover from.

According to a Wall Street Journal report, the 51 year old man had lived with his mother and had not traveled abroad.

Despite talk of possible school closings, schools in Italy are scheduled to open as planned around the fifteenth of September.

The Shoe Man of San Giovanni Market

2009-09-01T03:36:00.001-07:00

At the Piazza San Giovanni in Laterano intersection, right alongside the start of the Via Sannio street market, there is a truck. Inside that truck miracles happen.

Though I pass this truck just about every day, sometimes multiple times per day, it wasn't until today that I started to think maybe it is actually very creepy. You see, there is a nice old man who owns the truck and repairs shoes inside of it. Whether it is a strappy sandal emergency, a stiletto heel busted on the Roman cobblestone streets, or just some good old fashioned sole searching, this is your man. He'll fix any shoe quickly and cheaply. This is part of the beauty of Italy, we don't just throw things out because they are broken. There is a fix for everything.

If only I could get past the part about the dozens of little dolls and barbies attached to the grill of his truck...must ask him about the meaning behind the doll collection on of these days. Boh!

Me vs. Rome City Hall: VICTORY!

2009-08-27T04:06:00.000-07:00

With the amount of complaining I do about the ghastly bureaucracy in Rome, I think it is only fair to give credit where credit is due. This morning I left the house at about 10:00, fully prepared to spend an hour or two in line at the municipal building only to be told that I was missing some paper and should come back.

Rather, there was only one person ahead of me, and when it was my turn I was assisted (as always, from the other side of a bulletproof glass with a tiny circle through which I would squeak out my request) by a lovely young woman who helped me correct the few errors on the form I
had to submit, and within 15 minutes or so I was out of there with my signed, stamped (Italians love stamps) and approved documents.

I must say that it being August in Rome and most Romans are still on vacation had something to do with the fact that it was all so quick and easy, but still. I have nothing but love for Italy today. Except of course that it is 100 degrees today!

Worth mentioning, the fan you see in this picture actually dates back to the founding of the Roman Republic.

What Do Italians Think About American Food?

2009-08-26T01:32:00.000-07:00

I spend a lot of time writing about Rome and Italy travel. Today I got to thinking about What Italians think of the United States when they visit. Mainly, what they think of American food. I was a bit shocked at some of the opinions I got.

For example, here are a few of the top choices published by a reputable Italian travel blogger:

Denny's: "One of the best places to get fast food. Excellent and abundant burgers and sandwiches, an ideal place to have lunch".

Hooters: "Generous portions, excellent service provided by scantily dressed girls, great buffalo wings"

Taco Bell: "The best of tex-mex fast food, tacos, nachos, quesadillas, watch out, some are spicy!"

Pizza Hut: "If you absolutely must have a pizza, this is a great solution. Very cheap, huge portions, but obviously nothing like a real Italian pizza-thicker crust and instead of tomato sauce they use ketchup..."

Sbarro: "Cant miss this place, it has a huge Italian flag for its sign. Great salads and cold pastas, good pizza by the slice".

I could never quite put my finger on what the problem with Pizza Hut's tomato sauce was...

Rome, where tiny cars park illegally amidst graffiti paradiso

2009-08-25T07:19:00.001-07:00

If one photo could describe Rome, this is it:

Victor Hugo on Old Friends

2009-08-21T23:21:00.000-07:00

"My coat and I live comfortably together. It has assumed all my wrinkles, does not hurt me anywhere, has moulded itself on my deformities, and is complacent to all my movements, and I only feel its presence because it keeps me warm.

Old coats and old friends are the same thing."
-Victor Hugo

When it comes to European borders, Italy lies South

2009-08-19T04:19:00.000-07:00

It is always nice to get away from the hustle and bustle of Rome and explore new places. This year my destination of choice was Brussels, Belgium. Aside from a much cooler place to spend August in Europe, flights from Rome are frequent (and in our case, free) with low cost airlines such as Ryan Air, not to mention that Brussels is a great base to explore other top European destinations such as Paris, Brugges, Amsterdam, Rotterdam and a handful of other neighboring cities.

There are no borders when flying between European countries. You don't even need a passport, just a national ID card will do. The European Union truly has united countries into one giant European Nation. However, one mustn't be misled into thinking that all European countries are made equally, because the differences that lie across each border can be astounding.

It's no secret that between Northern and Southern Europe there are vast differences. Northern Europe is known for its cool climates, booming industries, intelligent city planning, and reserved characters. Southern Europe boasts its warm climate, world renowned food, sluggish economies, and colorful people. Still, the differences I found on this trip were unsettling.

After living in a city like Rome for ten years, the things that jump out at many tourists (filthy streets, graffiti, rude people, ripoffs, poor organization) no longer bother me. One becomes exceedingly patient by living here thanks to a survival mechanism which teaches us to just "let it go", or find another place to call home (which many do). I can now spend an entire morning in line somewhere only to be told by some rude Italian bureaucrat to come back tomorrow, I carry around toilet tissue and handsoap because I am fully aware that most Roman bathrooms will not have any, any I don't mind when the cashiers throw my change down on the counter instead of placing it in my hand. I find all of these challenges to be minor inconveniences that one tolerates in order to live in a city as wonderful as Rome is.

Unfortunately, when it comes to my children an angry mama bear takes over my usually cool and composed self, and she is is just a bit less complacent than I.

The other day in Brussels I asked my aunt if there was a park nearby where I could take my three year old to burn off some energy. Sure, she said. The neighborhood park is quite close and not bad for kids.

NOT BAD??!!!! If this is not bad, I really need to see what good looks like. This park was the most amazing play space I have ever seen. Physically and mentally stimulating with more than 30 different activities, sand all over the ground so the kids can play barefoot, and best of all, completely free. While my daughter played and ran herself ragged, I started to wonder why nothing like this exists in Italy. As it became clear to me why not (within days it would be covered in cigarette butts, graffiti, trash, and otherwise defiled), I got downright mad.

Why can't Italy get her act together?! This country has 80% of the world's artistic and historic patrimony, yet on the list of most visited cities it is 5th, lagging behind France, Spain, and even China. If only the astounding amount of money we pay in taxes each year went to cleaning up Italian cities and making them friendlier places for tourists and natives alike, Italy would be number one on that list, where she belongs.

Campania: Home To Italy's Craftiest Con Artists

2009-08-05T05:49:00.000-07:00

Italy's Campania region is home to some of the country's most prized historic and natural patrimony such as the lost City of Pompeii, the stunning Amalfi Coast, the Island of Capri, the list goes on and on. Interestingly enough, it is also home to some of the worlds craftiest con artists.

It seems as though the world has Italy on the hot seat this month. Between Prime Minister Silvio Berlusconi's sex scandals, threats of kicking Italy out of the G8, and the story about two Japanese tourists being charged 900 Euro for lunch in a Roman restaurant when the actual bill should have been closer to 200 Euro, it sure seems true that when it rains, it pours (and sometimes in Italy, it even hails)!

To make matters worse, today in Avellino, (a suburb of Naples and city of origin of Tony Soprano, protagonist of the acclaimed HBO series "The Sopranos") A 62 year old woman was brought up on charges of aggravated fraud when police found her jogging with her dog. Since when is jogging at 62 against the law in Italy, you might ask? It is when you have been collecting a 100% invalidity pension for decades. In addition to jogging, locals say she is out every day ploughing her land and farming. Not bad for a 100% disabled woman, hey?

Just a few miles away in Caserta, according to the Sole 24 Ore newspaper today 200 individuals comprised of police officers, town mayors, and other city officials are under investigation for partaking in a widespread con which led to inflated and illegally issued traffic fines. Automatic speed detector devices were rigged to increase the amounts of fines issued, the personal information of those to whom fines were issued was compromised, and the local authorities are accused of lining their pockets with the profits.

Is it something in the water? Why is Italy known for the mafia and con artists almost above all else? Luckily Italian cuisine, fashion, and artistic patrimony help to tip the scales back into a more respectable position. All in all Italy never fails to amuse or surpise, and that my friends is part of what makes it so wonderful.

Update: The speed cameras around Caserta are now under sequester by Carabinieri, more here.

When In Rome, _ _ _ _ as the Romans Do

2009-08-03T04:09:00.000-07:00

I am always delighted when a package arrives on my Roman doorstep. Note that I have been here so long that I no longer say "a package from home", as for some time now, home is Rome.

A dear friend sent me a belated birthday gift. This is a friend who always knows exactly what I need (even why I myself don't know). The package included a book which from the title alone, I knew I would enjoy. So far, the pages of "Drink, Play, F@#k" by Andrew Gottlieb are quite entertaining.

"While purchasing condoms in a foreign country is much less embarrassing than doing so at home since you probably won't bump into your fifth grade English teacher in the checkout line, it is still an uncomfortable process. Especially if they're not on display and you don't speak Thai. You haven't really played charades until you've mimed what you need a condom for to a seventy year old druggist on the Phi Phi Islands."

All this talk about condoms got me thinking about how Italy measures up. While Rome and Italy in general for the most part rate poorly when it comes to overall organization and practicality, I must say that finding condoms is pretty easy, at any time of the day. Though there are no 24 hour mini marts, and pharmacies close for siesta every day, all day on Sundays, and basically for the entire month of August, still they do not leave frisky Romans in the lurch during their moment of need. Outside just about every pharmacy in the city there is a handy condom dispenser, with (count'em) seven different varieties of prophylactics.

Perhaps the abundance of condom machines all over the place could be the reason why Italy manages to keep it's population growth at zero for decades now (well, that and the fact that many Italians live with their parents until well into their 30's and 40's-who needs birth control when jealous Mamma is around)?

Bargain Shopping at Castel Romano Outlets

2009-07-29T07:44:00.000-07:00

Ok so I know how lucky I am when part of my job is to go and research upcoming events and things to do around Rome and then report back on them. So naturally I was more than happy to go check out this outlet shopping centre outside the city I had heard about. It's called Castel Romano and its only about 15km south of the Roman suburb of EUR. Not having a car, I hadn't had the chance to visit but yet. This week, with the summer sales on my mind, once I found out about the shuttle bus leaving from piazza barberini and only costing 21 euro, there was no stopping this shopaholic.

Not only are there big designer names like Cavalli, Valentino and D & G, but also Levis, la Perla and more Italian labels such as Pinko and Motivi. I found the shops to be especially good for womens wear, shoes and accessories. Oh, and did I mention shoes? I practiced the utmost restraint and only bought two pair (flip flops don't count, naturally). Had I known there is a "kiddie parking area" (that's right, you go there and park your kids with babysitters in a play area while you shop) I would have brought the little people (and probably stayed longer and spent MORE as a result. All the more reason to come back again my friends!

Italian Nuns Make a "Habit" out of Breaking the Law?

2009-07-21T00:18:00.000-07:00

Given the public backlash recently surrounding nuns and whether they have been granted too much freedom to act and do as they please, this most recent headline struck me as particularly interesting.

Let me set the scene for you as I envision it (naturally, based on the reported facts).

Three nuns are sitting around the convent and being pious when news that Pope Benedict XI has fallen in the bath and was taken to the hospital. The oldest nun, presumably the "boss" at her ripe age of 78, shouts "Fire up the Ford Fiesta, we've got to go"! Sister Tavoletta, 56, obeys the order and within moments the nuns peeled out and headed towards the Papal chalet at Les Combs. Tavoletta must have really put the pedal to the metal, because when local police stopped here, the "flying" nun was clocked at 120 mph (190 km/hr)!

After being handed a 375 Euro fine and having her license suspended, she vows to contest the fines. Presumably, the Vatican will foot the bill for Italy's top attorney for auto related lawsuits.

Out of curiosity, I wonder if that police officer now fears what might await him when his time comes and he marches up to the proverbial gates...perhaps he too might be handed a few violations?

Becoming Italian

2009-07-10T02:47:00.000-07:00

Some of you may remember our recent controversial report about the Italian fear of drafts and other illness-provoking phenomena such as the evil eye, ice cold drinks, sleeping near open windows, et cetera.

Yesterday, as two kind Italian men performed the herculean task of mounting two giant air conditioners in my apartment, I could barely contain my excitement. Finally, after ten years in this country I would spend July and August with 24,000 BTU's of arctic cool air blowing down on me and my loved ones. I found myself giggling when any time I got too close to the stream of air coming out of the machine while holding my 6 month old baby, one of the men would shout "Signora, attenzione!" (Watch out, the air will hit him)! I humored them and moved away before they pulled out their telefonini and called the department of child services on me.

A few hours later, when all was said and done and I sat down to work at my desk (conveniently located nice and close to the air conditioner), within minutes my neck began to hurt. It became stiff, sore, and sent a chill through my whole body. Panic stricken, I grabbed that handy remote control and hit the off button with a quickness while contemplating the possibility that against all odds, I was truly becoming Italian.

Follow our blog to find out how the story unfolds as temperatures soar to a scorching 34 this weekend!

New Italian Anti-Immigration Law Stirs Public Debate

2009-07-07T04:02:00.000-07:00

A new law passed on Thursday July 2, making illegal immigration a crime in Italy.

With the exception of heads of school and doctors, Italians are now required by law to report the presence of illegal immigrants. Violation of this law is now punishable by hefty fines of up to 10,000 Euro and even imprisonment for up to 3 years for those in violation. The government has asked for "citizen patrols" to enforce the new law.

No public services such as health care or education are to be granted to babies or children whose parents do not legally reside in Italy.

A petition against the law has been drafted by activities including Moni Ovadia, and those who wish to add their names may do so here.

Roma, a love/hate saga - part one

2009-06-25T02:39:00.000-07:00

I am truly lucky to live in Rome. Of all the places in the world, I am so thankful that I can actually call this one my home. That said, from time to time this city can really get a girl down. Here are 5 reasons why today was one of those days.

1. Why bother even trying to keep a decent looking car in this city? Some insane Roman driver is inevitably going to come along and plough into it.

2. Would it REALLY kill them to just put my three items in the bag for me and send me on my merry way?

3. Is that toilet ACTUALLY broken, or are they just too lazy to have to stock it with toilet paper and soap (let alone clean it). I suspect the latter.

4. Hold it right there!! Was I just served a Hot Dog with my 8 Euro aperitivo?? Toss me an olive, a crostino, ANYTHING but a hot dog.

5. Somebody give these kids a double espresso!

Guess what, I feel better already. Back in love with bella Roma and finished whining (at least for today).

Summer in the City

2009-06-22T06:44:00.001-07:00

Judging from the heat in Rome over the last few weeks, the summer is well and truly here. Of course I had noticed the increase in tourists everywhere around Rome which is great as along with the tourists come all the great events and festivals that the Comune di Roma and other organisations put on. A few of these super events which are certainly on my to do list for the summer are the following:

Under the Shade of the Collosseum; this is a fantastic setup, they have a great pool here which you pay around 10 euro to access for the whole day... heaven during those hot days in Rome! They are also holding concerts, cabaret, games, cooking shows and my favourite of all Italian things- spettacoli! Which is basically just any kind of show, but throw in a load of glitz, glamour, sequins, a lively sweaty male host and a few scantily clad lady sidekicks, in Italian they are called Veline.
The song of the sirens, from Oh Brother where art thou 'Go down to the river to pray' comes to mind when I think of all the goings on down along the Tiber, though you need to change pray to play! First of all there is a beautiful outdoor cinema set up in front of L'Isola Tiberina, which then turns into a cool bar for hanging out with all the film types.
Then just all along the riverbanks there are cocktail bars and stalls selling all kinds of magical goods! There are 13 refreshment rooms for every taste, from exotic food to the classic pizza. The website promises a full fun packed itinerary of cultural events throughout the summer, catering for all age groups and interests and the best thing of all its all for FREE!
At some stage this summer I hope to get a bit cultural and head to the Baths of Caracalla for an outdoor opera, from what I hear the setting and production are truly amazing.
Another great event this summer is Roma vintage, its a pool and party but with a difference its all about nostalgia so it is 70's and 80's themed, so expect games and deco to come from those eras. There is also a children's area and food.
Trastevere also has its own mini festival called Noantri Festival, definitely worth checking out if your in Rome during July.

I love that there is so much going on this summer, Rome always has something new up its sleeve! So now I just have to find the time to fit all these events and spettacoli in....

Italians in America (and their peculiar eating habits)

2009-06-06T02:15:00.000-07:00

There are some very interesting cultural differences between Italians in Italy and "Italians" in America. Americans of Italian descent will still call themselves Italian, regardless of whether they have ever been to Italy, can speak a word of Italian, or can even pinpoint it on a map.

I have always found the culinary differences between growing up in an Italian family vs. an Italian-American family quite peculiar. First let me give you a bit of background. Dad is a FOB (fresh off boat) Italian living in America. Mom is a third generation Italian, born and bred in the states but still "proud to be Italian".

Now for a closer glimpse at what Sunday dinners were like with the two families, using sample menus to show just how much things change as Italians "Americanize".

Dinner with Paternal Grandparents (Nonni)
Antipasti:
Primo: fresh handmade pasta with tomato sauce (never store bought, made with fresh tomatoes when in season. When not in season, made from the jars of tomatoes that were harvested last season and stored for the winter)
Secondo: cotolette di pollo (not to be confused with "chicken parm")
Contorno: steamed artichokes stuffed with bread crumbs, parmigiano reggiano, parsley, and a hint of garlic
Contorno 2: Green salad with sliced fennel, tomatoes, salt, olive oil, and balsamic or white wine vinegar.
Dessert: fresh fruit
finale: espresso

Dinner with Maternal Grandparents (Grandparents):
Appetizer: nothing
Primo/secondo/contorno (that's right, all one one plate at the same time): Spaghetti (cooked about 8 minutes too long) with meatballs, Kraft Parmesan cheese in a green can shaken over said spaghetti, the ribs that were cooked in the "gravy" (aka red lead or tomato sauce), a few slices of scali bread with butter, and a garden salad with creamy Italian dressing.
Dessert: Boston cream pie

What's the bottom line? After first coming to live in Italy, I will admit there was a period where I turned my nose up at Italian food in America (and annoyed the hell out of my family). Then I decided to apply the ever valid saying, "When in Rome...".

Moral of the story? Chicken broccoli ziti may not be Italian whatsoever, but if you manage to not overcook it until it's mush, it's not actually that bad.

A funny thing happened on the way to the Vatican: Groped on bus 40

2009-05-29T06:22:00.000-07:00

These days you cant get much for 1 euro but I always thought that in Rome the metro and bus price being fixed at 1 euro was 1 great value for residents and visitors alike, though an unpleasant experience on a packed bus this morning makes me think that one Italian male traveller was getting a lot more for his euro than the rest of us!
As a single female traveller you hear of the stories of men rubbing themselves up against you on an overcrowded bus, but naively I always thought that these were just urban myths or just that the girls in question had picked up the situation wrong, that the man had merely bumped into them as the bus took off.
Well I stood this morning whilst riding the holiest of buses, the number 40 which brings you straight to The Vatican from Termini train station. As The Vatican is so popular you can imagine how busy this bus gets, so there my friend and I were on our way to work on the packed bus and by stop 3 it had become totally full so we were all standing very close to each other. At this stage I had no where to move and I also realised that the man behind me was slowly rubbing himself off me!!
I obviously assumed it was my imagination getting the better of me and tried to ignore it but it only got a bit more persistent and as I could not move I tried to rearrange my bag to form a barrier.
Bag = worst barrier ever! As soon enough he had shoved that out of his way and was back to rubbing himself against me again! Being a polite Irish girl and not wanting to cause a scene I just went red as a cherry and started to mumble awkwardly to my friend, then faking a coughing fit I finally managed to get into a spot where he could not get me.
My friend was able to confirm that he was in fact being a perv and it was not my mind being overactive, but seeing as she was a polite Irish girl too and her Italian is not the greatest, to try help me she had given the man a few filthy looks. It turns out this only encouraged him as no sooner had I got out of his way he began to move his attentions on to my friend!
Needless to say as soon as we could get a seat we took it and thankfully did not have to put up with Mr Perv for too long.
This certainly wasn't the first time this has happened to anyone and I am sure it wont be the last.. I know since I have told people this story I have been hearing many more of the same theme back.
So men back off ....that euro bus ticket does not entitle you to a Lap Dance!!

A Greener Rome? Taxi-Bikes to the Rescue!

2009-05-23T03:39:00.000-07:00

There is an interesting new player on the Rome tourism scene this month. Three wheeled bici-taxi (taxi-bikes) are now scattered throughout the city, offering one way and hourly service throughout the eternal city.

The initiative is one aimed at sustainable mobility and eco-tourism, started as a collaborative effort between government authorities and an association that provides employment opportunities for former convicts (is it me or does there always have to be a connection between Roman taxis and convicts?).

The project was initially aimed as a free service, no official fees although tips were accepted. Now however it does seem that three-wheeled former felons are charging up to 30 Euro per hour for a private tour on these bikes. Still, for two people sightseeing in Rome, it's not outrageous. The bikes can pick up tourists and drop them off right at Rome's famous monuments, even those which are in pedestrian-only areas.

The bici-taxis will now begin a pilot test to last until the end of the year. At that time the city will decide whether the project should be allowed permanent funding.

Stay tuned for our follow up once we give these pedal-pushers a try!

Feeling Frisky in Rome

2009-05-20T05:28:00.000-07:00

They say that Paris is the most romantic city in the world but after spending a few months in Rome I am going to have to set the record straight and tell you all that I think Rome is now taking over as the most romantic city...sure you can't spell romantic without ROMA!

Everywhere you look in Rome you see couples canoodling on corners of romantic piazzas. On Wednesdays the Pope even gets in on the romance and invites newly wed couples to come join him for a papal blessing and of course there is the famous bridge of Ponte Milivo where young lovers show their undying love by locking a padlock to the lamppost and throwing the key into the Tiber river below.

This city is made for Romance with street sellers selling roses to happy couples of all ages, you can easily walk through the city and stumble across star-crossed lovers kissing on benches or waiting for a bus. Romance does not die out with age either. Recently on my way back from the Vatican I saw a couple easily in their 80's hand in hand walking along the street and every now again they would stop and give each other a little kiss!

With PDAs(public displays of affection) as far as the eye can see I know where this single girl is going to throw her two cents....into the Fontana di Trevi that is, as the local folklore goes throw one coin into the fountain if you want to return to Rome and two into the fountain if you want to find love in Rome!!

Romywood!

2009-05-20T04:21:00.000-07:00

Rome has been the backdrop of hundreds of films. From classics such as Roman Holiday to modern depictions of Ancient Rome such as the HBO series ROME, the Eternal city certainly has an impressive resume when it comes to film locations.
Obviously there is elevated media involvement now surrounding films such as Angels and Demons which bring high profile celebrities such as Tom Hanks to Rome for filming and often for premieres as well. The same kind of frenzy seems to be going on over filming of "New Moon" the second film in the "Twilight" book series by Stephenie Meyer. I read the first book, and will admit that while written for a teenage audience, it is addictive!
There is all kinds of buzz on the streets in this town now about how the cast and crew will be here any day now for filming. While the set is supposed to be in Montepulciano, just yesterday I was walking down a random Roman street and saw a movie set with a traffic scene being shot. I got all excited until I realized it was just another bad Italian TV show in the works. I'm still on the lookout though. If that handsome vampired named Edward pops out from behind the bushes, I won't put up a fight!

Tourist "DONT'S" Part One

2009-05-15T00:54:00.000-07:00

No matter where you are in the world, keeping up with appearances is important. Let's face it, first impressions are lasting, and we live in a society where beauty is worshiped. This is especially true in Italy.

Now the last thing anyone wants to do is get caught on camera with their trousers down. Or even sagging. To protect this tourist's identity, our photo will not reveal the subject, but let this be a lesson to us all to check for plumber's crack before wandering around Italy's most popular monuments! You never know when you might find yourself on candid camera!

Rigorously Italian Pork...

2009-05-13T00:50:00.000-07:00

The Swine Flu continues to claim victims around the world, with over 4,000 infections and more than 50 confirmed deaths. People everywhere are taking precautions much like those suggested for avoidance of any other airborne flu, ie washing hands, avoiding contact with people with flu-like symptoms, remaining in well-ventilated areas, etc.

According to the American Center for Disease Control, the swine flu cannot be transmitted through food. I think the Italians have yet to accept this assertation, judging from the pile of expiring pork I saw in the supermarket yesterday underneath a big sign that reads "Rigorously Italian Pork" (or rather, "strictly Italian". After snapping this photo, I took a chance, bought some seriously cheap pork chops and had a nice dinner. Most importantly, I'm still alive to report about it.

In all seriousness, here's hoping they contain the outbreak before it claims more lives.

How a Crazy Roman Vegetarian Marred an Otherwise Perfect Mother's Day

2009-05-11T00:58:00.000-07:00

To finish what was a truly lovely mother's day spend outside Rome at the lake, on the way back to the city we decided to stop at the "Festa dei Vegeteriani" being held at Piazza Re di Roma along the Via Appia. With two kids and the world's cutest mutt in tow, we had a walk around the stalls, admired the cute puppies being given away, cringed at the awful pictures of animal abuse, tasted some disgusting kamut crackers with seitan spread, and wished (if only for an instant) that it weren't sooooo hard not to eat meat.

There is a playground at the park, and our little one was itching to run around a bit so we made our way into the park. As dogs aren't allowed inside the childrens play area, we tied him to the fence, just by the playground entry where we could keep an eye on him.

Everyone was having a grand old time when suddenly one of the animalisti left her stall and decided it was time to shake things up. She made her way over to us and asked if that was our dog. We kindly replied yes, it was. She "suggested" that we move him to where we were standing so that he would be able to see us. I politely explained to her that dogs are not allowed in the childrens park. She continued to insist that we bring him over, or leave the park. Nothing I said made this woman budge. That's when I said "he's my dog, I'll do as I see fit with him, ok?" She turned and headed out of the park, but instead of going back to her stall, she proceeded to begin UNTYING my dog to take him away! What nerve!

After diffusing the situation, taking back my dog, and sending the wild woman on her way, I got to thinking. Was I wrong? Would it have been better to leave my dog at home alone while the family goes out? Does he really mind being tied up while the kids are at the park, or if I have to make a stop to buy milk? I don't think so.

Come to think of it, if you're reading this wild woman, maybe someone should tie YOU up! Keep your hands off my mutt and worry about how you can sell something better than those rancid seitan sandwiches. Grrrr....

The REAL Angels and Demons

2009-05-06T02:21:00.000-07:00

The Gods of Fashion vs. Graffiti Vandals

I started out on a morning walk today. The sun was shining, the birds were singing, and it was just an all around lovely morning. As I turned the corner to admire one of my favorite window displays (you know, the kind where even during the summer sales there isn't an item under 600 Euro to be found) I was mortified to see how the block had been defiled. Right there next to Burberry, Prada, and Gucci sat a giant wall of graffiti.

Now Rome is no stranger to graffiti. In fact, the origins of the practice point back to Ancient Rome and Pompeii, where inscriptions have been found on many of the ancient ruins. In Ancient times, it would have been easy to discern what kind of message the graffiti was there to impart. Today, it seems to me that it is just plain senseless.

Surely some will argue that it is a form of art, it goes deeper than writing on walls, and so on. No matter what it stands for, I see it as nothing more than vandalism. ESPECIALLY in such close proximity to Gucci. Shame on them!

Italians Embrace Doughnuts (and bagels too)!

2009-04-30T01:54:00.000-07:00

While on a brief pit stop along the Italian highway this week, I was surprised to see more American food influence than ever before. On the countertop where all the lovely espressos, cappuccinos, caffe macchiatos, etc were being served, there was a giant box of doughnuts. Mind you these were plain sugar coated doughnuts, but still dougnuts. As I look just beyond the counter, there is a giant billboard ad for bagel sandwiches! OK I'll admit this is partly a dream come true for me,but a bit scary too. What could be next? Super size cokes? Chili burgers? Should we be concerned?

Dodge the Human: Hit by a Roman Taxi!

2009-04-28T05:14:00.000-07:00

Walking around Rome can be a dangerous activity, the pedestrian crossing rules don't seem to apply to Italian drivers, if you are on them you are lucky if the cars stop to let you cross and don't expect the motorini to, they just play dodge the human! A recent run in with a cab just goes to show you that even standing still on the streets of Rome should be done at your own risk...

There I was standing by a taxi rank the other day taking in the the awesome view that is St Peters Basilica, only to have a cab come speeding out of the rank, swerving to avoid the group of students that had just walked into the piazza and in the process he managed to clip the back of my foot with his tyre. Crippled with pain I did not get a chance to run after the cab and all the other drivers at the rank, claimed to have no idea who he was so the evil taxi driver just got away with it and I was left with a nice swollen ankle and colourful bruises to prove that standing around on roman streets, especially near cab drivers is a dangerous pursuit. My advice is stick to the sidewalk - at least there you are hopefully safe from the crazy roman drivers!!

Take a Number!

2009-04-23T03:52:00.000-07:00

Well readers, spring is in the air! Along with spring come tentative plans for summer travel. Given the fact that my little family just welcomed a new member, I thought I'd better get cracking on the passport situation in order to be ready to fly when the time comes.

Some online research told me I'd need a birth certificate. No problem, I thought, let me head to the town hall and grab that. I woke up bright and early, bundled up the baby and headed over to the neighborhood circoscrizione.

First things first, TAKE A NUMBER said the grouchy signora at the "welcome" desk. I wish I had brought rubber gloves, the number machine looked like something out of a horror film. I hit the button, hoped that I took the right one (directions in Italy tend to be ambiguous), and then put some sanitizer on my little fingers. When they finally called my number, I gave them my request form and was told that the birth certificate would take 40 days to procure. WHAT?! 40 days seemed like a long time, but hey we are in Italy, pazienza!

After our 40 day wait, I headed back to pick up the blessed birth certificate. Guess what, CHIUSO! Closed, come back tomorrow. Ok, what's one more day. Indeed, the next day the heavens parted and yet another brush with the devil known as Italian bureaucracy had been successfully dealt with!

8 reasons to Love living in Rome

2009-04-11T13:32:00.000-07:00

After all that has been in the news of late I thought it was time I penned a few thoughts of cheer... 8 reasons why I love being here.

1. The Gelato ! Who out there can deny it . Here in Rome is where my taste buds are spoiled for choice ... there are so many flavours, and from my 'research' each place has its own signature one that keeps patrons coming back for more, here at Roberto's place you can sample a rich pure chocolate with just a twist of chili. These flavors entwine together to make the perfect bite. All of his ice cream is made in this little place pictured here. I used to come here almost every day when I lived in this part of Rome.

2. The Gelato! OH did i say that already ... "squisito" that's how to say delicious in the Italian language. Say it aloud and you feel it . It is a beautiful word.

3. Summer balmy nights, when a stroll around almost every corner brings us to the ice cream which is still being scooped out at midnight.

4. I love the fact that I can be a tourist every day and then go home to all my comforts: pure bliss.

5. Villa Borghese ... a charming , grand park located in the centre of Rome , a stone's throw from Piazza del Popolo where anyone and everyone can find a place to sit alone on a bench reading or daydreaming. It's a perfect place to stroll leisurely or take a brisk speed walk along the many pathways and little roads.

6. One of my favorites is hiring a bicycle built for four and taking a 'drive' on a Sunday afternoon around Villa Borghese with my family, stopping only for .... an ice cream.

7. If I need to stay indoors for a few days , that my "holiday" isn't lost or wasted ... the Colossem still waits for me.

8. I couldn't let this go by without saying that the best way to start the day off is with a coffee and cornetto . What better place to live, to love to live ... than here in Rome.

When In Rome - Word Origins

2009-03-03T22:54:00.001-08:00

What's all the talk about doing as the Romans do? Is that really a good idea?? Sometimes I wonder. In any event, about 1600 years ago, St, Augustine traveled to Milan after having been in Rome. When he realized that the Milanese did not fast on Saturdays as the Romans did, he had a talk with St. Ambrosio, the bishop of Milan who answered: "When I am at Rome, I fast on a Saturday, when I am at Milan, I do not. Follow the customs of the Church where you are". This phrase was then adapted to become "When they are at Rome, they do there as they see done" as written by Robert Burton in his Anatomy of Melancholy. Eventually the widespread phrase evolved into "When In Rome, do as the Romans do".

More interesting word and phrase origins here

Romancing Rome

2009-02-12T07:18:00.000-08:00

Living in Rome one can pretty much anticipate being flirted with by Roman men, who are renowned for their expertise in the art of romance.

That said, I was not surprised when one morning while waiting for the bus I caught the steady gaze of an Italian man. There was little conversation between us as I told him "non parlo Italiano molto bene" (which roughly translates: I don't speak much Italian). He was then surprised when I made mention of my Italian husband. But a true gentleman he was when he helped me onto the already overcrowded bus.

Not wanting to let go of my hand, he let me know that he was soon going make his departure from the bus and we said our goodbyes ... he implied for a kiss ... and than he was gone.

So it's still here, the "romancing Rome" I wonder if that gentleman's day was a little brighter as a result of his flirtation? Maybe that is why in his 70 plus years of life he still continues the romancing.

Streets of Rome ..."The sidewalk struggle"

2009-01-22T06:17:00.000-08:00

In Rome there are sidewalks that are practically non-existent, where my umbrella would scrape against the side of the buildings just to avoid hitting the cars parked along the street. So when I was told about the large sidewalks here in Ostia Lido (sea port of Rome) My mind conjured up pictures of delightful strolls pushing my baby about in my extravagant purchase " top of the range" pram, but just eight weeks after our arrival here that pram took an early retirement and now sits permanently inside our front door playing perfect hostess to all manner of things.

Though there are some decent sidewalks here; like for example the boardwalk a few kilometers down towards the port of Rome itself, it is brand new and on a sunny day can be a nice way to unwind after pranzo (midday meal). But the majority of sidewalks on my daily school route make the 2.5 kilometer round trip seem like an obstacle course. Tree roots jut through the concrete to resemble miniature volcano's , these can even continue into the roads. And other sidewalks are broken , pieces of it missing making my footing unstable and clumsy.

Two perfectly good sidewalks that just didn't meet, so yet again I was forced to 'struggle' , balancing my pram on two wheels in order to cross over.

Now the season is cold and wet and my baby travels 'economy class' in a small lightweight stroller that gives little protection against these harsh elements. I still have to struggle across uneven damaged sidewalks dodging tree roots, pot holes, and other small annoyances!

Spring will be here soon, things are improving... the two 'perfectly good' sidewalks now meet. Work began just a few days after taking a photo of that scene...did perhaps someone notice me that day...

Rome's (new) Circus

2009-01-16T04:40:00.000-08:00

Sometimes when you think you've been there, done that, it's good to get out and try something new. The Lidia Togni Circus is in town out on the Via Appia Nuova at Ippodromo delle Capanelle, and we took the kids to check it out.

For 10 Euro (16 Euro really but you can download an online coupon for 6 Euro) I must say it was quite impressive. It gave the kids a bit of a startle at first, opening up with some intense music and total darkness. But then it was upbeat, with some great dancers (naturally any Italian spectacle must involve scantily dressed dancing women) and fantastic costumes.

With a relatively small space, they managed to parade 24 horses, about 6 lions, and a few elephants around to the delight of all.

Full details for the circus can be seen at: www.lidiatogni.it/index.html

Coffee please

2008-12-07T04:17:00.000-08:00

When in Rome do as the Romans do.

It goes without saying that the Romans have realized the perfect way to start their day, keeping it simple...A coffee and cornetto at one of the countless coffee bars in Rome.

I haven't always been a coffee enthusiast, in fact it took an unfortunate event for me to make the swift switch. I had been regularly visiting a relative, in the Rome countryside and on this particular visit was invited to make my own cup of tea while "Nonna" needed to take care of another matter. So there I was, alone in her kitchen pouring hot water into a cup and too my horror a ghastly sight of maggots came floating to the surface ! You can imagine Nonna's surprise of my newly found love of coffee on my following visit. I'm guessing those teabags had been reserved for "stranieri" (foreigners) like me !

I love the fact that coffee in Rome is at it's best anytime of the day. On just about every street corner sits a bar "coffee bar" each one enticing patrons inside. Some offer a student special " cappucino & cornetto, 1 euro". In the window of another, a sign reads "Happy Hour,"while for most of the coffee bars it is simply the wonderful aroma of coffee itself.

There is a such a variety to choose from. A very simple establishment to even the grand, boasting chandeliers and seating inside and out, you are bound to pay more for such comforts (and we do). Then you stumble across a coffee bar that welcomes a steady flow of patrons, many of whom are familiar faces to the bartender, and there is standing room only. Here, tucked neatly away behind the dome glass counter an assortment of "pasticcini mignons" little cakes await! So tempting they are. The only thing that hindered me was my lack of the Italian language. I managed only to buy a few "cioccolato" that day. And the coffee here, in my humble opinion ..... Just perfect.

Gypsies who make their children beg - is it slavery? Not if it's only part-time!

2008-11-30T09:44:00.000-08:00

Once again, the Italian courts have outdone themselves. An article published today in La Repubblica outlines how a Rom woman who was sentenced to 5 years in prison for "child slavery" has just had the conviction overturned and re-established as a lesser crime of "child mistreatment". According to the courts, there is a fine line between the two crimes, and if the hours that a child is forced to beg for money do not exceed 4 per day, then this cannot possibly be tried as child enslavement.

Since street begging is considered a deep rooted practice in the Rom culture, the Italian courts have decided to simply apply a few simple child labor law limits and give them its blessing?

Mia V, the gypsy woman in mention, will now await a second trial, and who knows if she'll be punished. My guess is that she will get a fine, probably less one one that any of us would get for passing a red traffic light - and be sent on her way to beg with her child by lunchtime.

The Cassation courts justified their actions by stating that it is wrong to "criminalize behavior that is rooted in the culture and tradition of a people".

Moral of the story, by all means let your children get used to a life of begging from birth, but be sure they punch out after 4 hours or so, or you could be in trouble!

Comments, opinions anyone?! In my own humble opinion, this is topped only by the law recently taken off the books that stated a woman who was wearing jeans could not possibly be raped...

Arrivederci Roma

2008-11-18T12:48:00.000-08:00

With Christmas just weeks away it was time for a little shopping !. I decided on something different and caught an early train ( Euro Star ) from Stazione Termini for a day shopping in Florence.

The journey took a couple of hours but it was very relaxing with not as many tourists about this time of the year.Before I began my shopping frenzy I had a coffee and checked my map scouting the best route to take.

It wasn't far to walk and before I knew I was standing in front of Duomo Firenze, a spectacular sight of grand architecture and it was when I was up close that I realized the entire structure was covered in a soft hue of pink and green marble. ( i wouldn't mind some of that gracing my kitchen ).

Around the site of the Dome there were plenty of little shops and stalls selling specialities of the region.

Not time for a coffee stop yet, further along I found a Coin department store, than a "Guess" store on Via Por Santa Maria...full of handbags all calling my name ! they were less expensive than those in Rome ( I had done my research ).A short distance away is Ponte Vecchio, this bridge is so charming and with a history worth knowing . The bridge is now home to small and beautiful jewelery shops , time for a photo , the scenery beyond the bridges arches were like a painting of centuries past.

Some more shopping in the open Market San Lorenzo, with plenty of stalls selling leather products and pasmina scarfs all made locally and genuine.

Time for two Italian rituals of Pasticcerie & Pausa.....plenty of choice, and on a day like this I didn't hesitate on a spot with a view.

Florence was a perfect day. Small enough to wander and take in the sights of spectacular water fountains; bronze statues, larger than I imagined. And I could not leave Florence without seeing " David" , just the replica, the original is further out of town and would probably need more time to view that one........Next time I think I will make it a Weekend event.

BRRR!

2008-11-17T12:45:00.000-08:00

It's FREEZING IN ROME! I guess it's about time we had a taste of winter, but this morning gave me a bit of a startle when I opened my balcony doors to look for a broom in order to sweet up the remnants of a pizza party my Roman mutt had on the kitchen floor last night. It was an arctic blast, coming right in from my fourth floor window. The high temp today was about 16 degrees Celsius, and the low about 6.

The one small consolation is that with winter come the holidays. In just a few short weeks we'll start celebrating with the Immacolata on Dec. 8, then Christmas, Santo Stefano, New Years, and La Befana. Let's hope that this year is like most other winters in Rome, with the weather not sinking far below 4 or 5 degrees at the lowest. Otherwise, it may be time to hibernate until the spring?

Stay warm readers, and buona notte!

Roman treasures

2008-11-13T06:19:00.000-08:00

Since my arrival to Rome I have been wanting to find some treasure troves; to find a market where your eyes are caught by something exquisite and affordable and a true "must have".

I have in my possession a little book showing locations of all the collectible, food, you name it markets that are to be found in this great explorable city. To venture out with this little book is like panning for gold...it's out there somewhere, and when you find that market you are ecstatic !

A few of my explorations ( all with good intention ) have been unsuccessful. One market I followed to instruction catching numerous modes of transportation only to find nothing or "niente" as we way here in Italy. Other attempts have me travel as far as my front door, really !!. Weather changes, or accepting that the four hours spent trying to get myself and the kids ready has just been too much time spent. And finally, in our perseverance we have "struck gold". A great little antique market in the Historic City, aptly named "La soffitta ai portici" was truly a Roman treasure, we came away with a few little treasures as well as a leaflet advertising the following dates for this market.

Another type of market I have discovered while being here in Rome is of a different kind, one in which you can browse at your leisure from the comfort of your home...ebay. Not nearly as fun but something to do when insomnia is ever present.

And then there is another market day, the carboot sale...a friend with a car and its boot invited me to join her for this day out , selling in a small field close by the Sea. Here we enjoyed sunshine, fresh air, great food and there were lots of bargins, I mean treasures to be found.

Rome has come to play

2008-11-12T10:24:00.000-08:00

My family and I have recently relocated to Ostia after having my second child , and are now enjoying life here in " the playground of Rome" with Sunshine, Sea air...but with the colder days approaching and much less time spent taking walks on the Lido I have searched for other enjoyments.

Here in Ostia I have found an assortment of playgrounds and have seen an abundance of friendly Kids who enjoy playing on them , whatever the weather! One excellent playground "Fanta Parco"( Via Pietro ) has a lot to offer with covered areas for Parents to sit, relax while the children use all that extra energy gained from breathing sea air and eating yummy pizza. There are security cameras for that extra piece of mind, giving space to unwind a little.It is always well kept so I can be assured it is cleaned well where the Children are playing and enjoying!

Now my kind of "enjoyment" is ( and has been for a number of years ) beading. In these few years the number of women who can now string a few pearls together is in the thousands , are we all as gifted as we think ? I only hope !

A great find for me here is " La Cartareccia "(Via A. Piola Casalli ). Here they have everything and anything needed to create a piece of FINE : swarovski , pearls ; FUNKY : chunky , plastic ; or just FABULOUS , whatever makes you happy !. My " playground " has now become a favorite for my 6yr old son , he is busy creating the funkier kind !

The store runs classes through the week and on Saturday....just maybe i'll leave the Kids with my husband at "Fanta Parco" while I head over to "La Cartareccia" for my own playtime.

http://www.fantaparco.it/

http://www.lacartareccia.it/

There are other areas in Rome's centre where you can shop for beads. In a little street near the Spanish steps, Via Margutta ; you will find a great selection of Swarovski. Piazza Vittorio Emanuele II has many shops boasting strands of Pearls, coral and semi precious stone. Last but not least are the markets, any that you may stumble across. Look for old necklaces for vintage beads.

Sun Makes a Sneak Appearance in Rome!

2008-11-04T09:11:00.001-08:00

After ten days of rain, the sun is once again shining in Roma. Just when I had pretty much accepted the fact that the days of sun and warmth were over and winter had reared its ugly face once and for all, there is hope!

I took advantage of the beautiful morning and had a long walk through the Terme di Caracalla, the Circus Maximus, and the Villa Celimontana. My blissful zen state was nearly ruined however when I needed to use the public bathroom inside the park - which clearly states opening hour of 10:00. come 10:05, I began to lose patience and yelled at the lazy workers who just shrugged and said someone would be along. Persistence paid off today though, after a few more insults they finally got the keymaster to open up.

All in all, a lovely start to the day, and to the month of November in Rome.